The Central Saint Martins BA 2024 Student Show that wasn't that HUMBLE
On May 29, Granary Square hosted the BA Fashion Show 2024, where forty final-year student collections, each featuring six distinct looks, graced the runway under the hashtag #BAFCSM24
The Central Saint Martins BA 2024 Student Show was a dazzling display of talent and innovation, reaffirming the institution's status as a crucible of cutting-edge fashion. This year's showcase was nothing short of spectacular, featuring collections that were both profoundly creative and provocatively thought-evoking. The graduating class presented a mesmerizing array of designs that pushed boundaries and challenged conventions, blending artistry with social commentary in ways that left audiences in awe. Each piece was a testament to the students' exceptional skill and fearless imagination, making the show not just a visual feast but a powerful statement on the future of fashion.
Known on social media as the "crochet granny," Alina Ispas's work prominently features the timeless art of crochet. Her standout piece, a robe covered in silver chromatic squares with the bold statement "Here to Steal Your Jobs," captivated the audience. Another striking look included a black leather jacket made up of individual coin purses, each containing a flower—a recurring motif in her collection. Flowers were either carried by the models or integrated into the designs, lending a fairytale-like quality to the collection. Adding to the whimsical atmosphere, models paraded down the runway with luggage, evoking the sense of embarking on summer vacations.
Patrick Garvey's collection, "CRYSTALS AS A NEW FORM OF SPIRITUALITY," drew profound inspiration from natural formations, showcasing his exceptional talent as a Saint Martins graduate designer. His work beautifully blended the ethereal imagery of Catholicism with pastel-colored knitwear garments, creating a captivating and spiritually resonant aesthetic. Garvey's extraordinary designs not only mesmerized the audience but also earned him the coveted L’Oréal Pro Award, a testament to his remarkable creativity and vision.
Macy Grimshaw showcased her BA fashion womenswear collection with remarkable zeal on Wednesday night, making her a standout talent. A previous recipient of the JBNY Scholarship, which supports international students, Grimshaw unveiled her Rue De Mauricette collection to an audience captivated by its unique individuality. The collection featured an array of unconventional silhouettes and intricate collage work, making it a fabulous sight to behold.
Liverpool-born knitwear designer Drew Kent, a proud BFC Scholarship recipient, dazzled everyone with an eco-conscious graduation collection that was an explosion of vibrant colors. By ingeniously using upcycled materials and punchinella sequin waste, Kent's garments transformed into lush, voluminous florals. The gender-fluid designs beautifully narrated a tale of self-discovery and queer joy, all while championing environmentalism. It was a joyous and exciting showcase that left a lasting impression!
Knitwear designer Anna Dewhirst captivated the audience with her playful and innovative graduate collection, inspired by the classic swimwear styles of 1940s Parisian pools. Collaborating with Rainbow Loom, she ingeniously reimagined swimming goggles, sarong wraps, and swimming caps, knitting them together into red-carpet-worthy pieces. Her collection was a true showstopper, showcasing her exceptional creativity and flair.
Sarabande scholar Yodea Marquel crafted an inspiring and deeply meaningful collection, drawing from the rich history of the seven elm trees planted around an old oak in Tottenham, which lent their name to the area of Seven Sisters. Aptly named "Seven Sisters," Marquel's final offering "serves as a summoning that harnesses local folklore to narrate and honour the story of my community," as the designer eloquently explained. The collection featured intricate, interconnected structures adorned with woven fabric panels, emerging from the models' shoulders and backs like ethereal wings. Marquel's designs masterfully balanced the organic and technological, with deft lacing that evoked tangled plant roots, the veins and arteries circulating blood, and the wires of a circuit board. This collection was not only a visual feast but also a profound tribute to community and heritage, showcasing Marquel's exceptional talent and visionary storytelling.
Sam Friberg's graduation collection, Pigeons, was inspired by his experiences living in warehouses and squats throughout London, where he and his friends would scavenge the streets for materials to repurpose into furniture. This nostalgic journey influenced his approach to clothing, as he utilized discarded industrial waste like tyres, inner tubes, cogs, and bike chains to create textiles, striving to avoid virgin materials entirely. Additionally, Friberg incorporated slashed-up military tents, dyed with food scraps from the CSM canteen, into his designs, resulting in utilitarian looks adorned with heavy, hardcore hardware. One model even resembled a rusty knight in armour as they strutted down the runway.
While the collection may exude a sense of rage, it is also a reflection of Friberg's reaction to the declining living standards in the UK and our society's careless treatment of the environment. Yet, amidst the turmoil, there is a glimmer of hope. Pigeons serves as a testament to innovation, DIY culture, and craftsmanship—a celebration of resilience and creativity in the face of adversity.
CSM 2024 BA Key Collections and Designers
Award: L'Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award.
Collection: Combined knitwear with crystals, inspired by his Catholic upbringing and new-age spirituality. The collection featured knit dresses in vibrant colors like turquoise, fuchsia, and green, with crystals grown directly on the gowns.
Award: First runner-up.
Collection: Inspired by her upbringing in Buenos Aires, featuring elements like horses, gauchos, and traditional Argentinian floral painting techniques. The collection included tasseled tops, skirts, and floral prints reimagined as leather appliqués.
Award: Second runner-up.
Collection: Known for supersized dresses that resembled wearable art installations, emphasizing size and flow.
Collection: Conceptual and sculptural looks inspired by Seven Sisters in Tottenham, London. The collection featured cotton jersey dyed with herbs, reused paper pulp, and motifs inspired by elm trees.
Collection: Fused trucking culture with feminine fabrics and bridalwear. The collection included silhouettes adorned with stainless steel exhaust pipes, spikes, and studs, reflecting her obsession with truckers and family tartan.
Collection: Used patterned textiles to create architectural, origami-like shapes, inspired by his late grandfather’s ties and grandmother’s scarves. The collection featured antique floral prints, herringbone weaves, and Fair Isle patterns.
Celebrity Attendance: The show attracted notable industry figures, including Kiko Kostadinov, Laura and Deanna Fanning, and Connor Ives, who were present to spot emerging talent.
The CSM BA Fashion Show 2024 was a blend of creative fashion innovation and political activism, reflecting the students' commitment to both their craft and global issues. The event highlighted the next generation of fashion talent while also serving as a platform for social and political expression addressing contemporary issues and pushing the boundaries of fashion design.