Alchemy of Ashes AW25: Genaro Rivas Unveils Mystical Collection at LFW

London Fashion Week witnessed a historic moment as Genaro Rivas became the first and only Peruvian designer to showcase his work on this prestigious platform. More than 130 fashion enthusiasts gathered at The Swiss Church in Covent Garden to experience his latest and most ambitious collection, Alchemy of Ashes. The anticipation was palpable, with eager attendees lining up around the block, underscoring Rivas’s growing influence and solidifying his position as a trailblazer in the international fashion scene.

**Alchemy of Ashes: A Mystical Exploration in Fashion**

Rivas’s latest collection, Alchemy of Ashes, featured 26 striking looks that spanned both menswear and womenswear, taking the audience on a journey through a dark and mystical universe. Inspired by witchcraft and esoteric symbolism, the collection was a bold departure from conventional fashion narratives. The designs featured hand-embroidered dresses, alpaca suits, printed silks, and knitted sweaters, all adorned with motifs personally designed by Rivas.
Drawing inspiration from the 2015 film The Witch, Rivas embarked on a deep exploration of 16th and 17th-century mysticism and symbolism. His research led to the integration of iconic elements such as cats, goats, and hares, symbols historically linked to the occult. This thematic approach not only challenged traditional aesthetics but also showcased Rivas’s ability to reinterpret Peruvian materials with a futuristic and avant-garde vision.

**A Collaborative Masterpiece**

The enigmatic appeal of Alchemy of Ashes was further enhanced by body accessories crafted by Thomis Papadimitriou, adding an otherworldly dimension to the runway looks. Kai Brophy composed the haunting musical backdrop, while Richard Phillipart and Jo Mitakidou led the beauty team for the show, ensuring a cohesive and captivating presentation. The casting direction was managed by Ray Rehman for Catapult Models, bringing together a diverse lineup of models that perfectly embodied the collection’s mystical aura.

**An Experiment in Textures and Craftsmanship**

Alchemy of Ashes stood out as a masterclass in textures and craftsmanship, exploring the tactile qualities of wools, silks, hand embroidery, human hair, moulage, and deconstructed denim. The second-to-last look, inspired by Albrecht Dürer’s 1500 engraving *Witch Riding Backwards on a Goat*, was a hand-embroidered masterpieceincorporating human hair, showcasing Rivas’s commitment to artistic storytelling.
The final piece, the Ashes Dress, was a symbolic creation crafted from fabric remnants of the entire collection, encapsulated in resin a powerful representation of rebirth and transformation. The collection also featured a recurring motif from John Dixon’s painting Incantation, printed on a unisex coat, further reinforcing the mystical theme.

**The Legacy of Genaro Rivas**

Born in Peru and based in London, Genaro Rivas is celebrated as one of the most disruptive and influential voices in Latin American fashion. His reputation is built on his innovative use of sustainable materials and collaborations with artisan communities in both Peru and London. Recognized globally for his forward-thinking approach, Rivas remains the only Peruvian designer to present multiple collections at London Fashion Week.

Portrait by Cristhian Tello

Inspiring Future Generations of Peruvian Designers

Rivas’s journey from Peru to the international fashion scene is not just a personal triumph but a call to action for greater support and visibility for Peruvian fashion. As the sole Peruvian representative at London Fashion Week with four consecutive collections, he advocates for stronger institutional and corporate backing within Peru to facilitate the internationalization of Peruvian fashion.

Through his work, Genaro Rivas aims to pave the way for future Peruvian designers to break into global platforms with the recognition and support they deserve.