“Samurai of Spectrum”

The project “Samurai of Spectrum” has won the 1st prize at the German fashion competition Frankfurtstyleaward in 2020 and was exhibited at Kunstverein Familie Montez art gallery in Frankfurt.

Team Credits:

• Video camera, directing & postproduction: @thekassandrapowell

• Model, Samurai: @njamilya 

• MUAH: @ili_the_dealy 

• Costume creation support: @thesamplingstudio @eddiegavriilidis 

• Fabric print: @dftprintstudio

• Designer: @roqsoir.official

BTS

ABOUT

The design is based on two research concepts: the Japanese samurai armour and garments and  Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD) condition. 

Each time I explained the silhouette, cut, and intricate patterns of the garments, I raised awareness of the challenges faced by the people with ASD condition.

There are numerous references to both concepts in this work.

For example, the screen print of the denim jacket epitomises Alexithymia - the inability to recognise emotions. I juxtaposed drawings of various facial expressions to illustrate the challenges of this condition. The cut of the jacket mimics Japanese origami technique.

I used leftover and dead stock denims, vintage leather skirt, camping paracords.

Designer Yevgenia Melnuk, @roqsoir.official

- I’ve always been driven by a passion for fashion design, which I now channel through a strong technical foundation. My earlier career in petroleum engineering has given me an unconventional yet valuable perspective on the intricacies of pattern cutting and tailoring. This technical background, coupled with a project-based mindset, has greatly influenced my approach to developing collections. After earning my degree from the Technical University of Oil and Gas in Ukraine, I spent several years working as an offshore engineer. However, my long-standing dream of becoming a fashion designer led me to pivot my career.

Pursuing fashion design at the Krakow School of Art and Design and later at the London College of Fashion taught me the significance of rigorous research and the thoughtful development of design concepts—elements that I believe can elevate clothing into wearable art.

One of the pivotal moments in my career was a summer internship with Gareth Pugh, which was both challenging and deeply rewarding.

Today, I am in the process of launching my own slow couture label, Roqsoir. My goal is to create unique and sophisticated pieces that are deeply rooted in thorough research. Each collection draws inspiration from significant social and cultural-historical events, all while prioritizing sustainability through the use of recycled and recyclable materials.

At the heart of Roqsoir is the creative process, which I believe should be the cornerstone of any fashion label.”